Italy is one of the easiest countries in Europe to explore using public transport. Trains connect major cities quickly, while buses make it easy to reach smaller towns, coastal villages, and hidden gems. During our twelve-day trip through Northern and Central Italy, we travelled entirely by public transport without renting a car.

Our route started in Milan, continued along the Ligurian coast to Genoa and La Spezia, included Cinque Terre, then took us inland to Florence and Bologna before returning to Milan. Travelling this way turned out to be simple, affordable, and surprisingly relaxing. Here’s our itinerary day by day, with tips for anyone wanting to explore Italy by train and bus.

Public transport used during this trip

Traveling through Northern Italy by public transport turned out to be very easy. During this trip we mainly used Trenitalia, Italo and FlixBus. Booking tickets in advance allowed us to keep transport costs surprisingly low.

Trenitalia

We used Trenitalia several times during the trip, mainly for regional trains. A great option when traveling with two people is the ME&YOU fare, which gives a discount when booking together. Regional trains in Italy are generally reliable and easy to book through the Trenitalia website or app. These were the Trenitalia journeys we took:

• Milano Centrale → Genova Piazza Principe – €12.90 per person using the ME&YOU fare
• La Spezia → Pisa – €11 for two people with the ME&YOU fare
• Pisa → Firenze – €9.30 per person (ME&YOU was not available on this route)

Italo Treno

For high-speed travel we used Italo, another major train operator in Italy. They offer competitive prices, especially if you qualify for the YOUNG fare. High-speed trains between these cities are very fast and comfortable, with travel times of around 40 minutes to one hour. Our Italo journeys:

• Firenze → Bologna – €10.90 per person (YOUNG fare)
• Bologna → Milano – €12.90 per person (YOUNG fare)

FlixBus

For the trip between Genoa and La Spezia, we decided to take a FlixBus, which cost only €6 per person. The bus doesn’t stop directly in the city center of La Spezia, but the walk is manageable if you’re traveling light. For us it was a very affordable and easy option.

Boats (Portovenere Day Trip)

For our day trip to Portovenere, we took a boat from La Spezia with Navigazione Golfo dei Poeti. Seeing the Ligurian coastline from the water made this one of the nicest transport experiences of the trip.

• Price: €15 per person
• Travel time: 20–30 minutes

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Milan

We arrived in Milan in the evening and took public transport to our apartment outside the city centre. After dropping off our luggage, we went to a nearby pizzeria for dinner and then rested.

Since we were returning to Milan at the end of the trip, we didn’t explore the city yet. If you arrive early and feel energetic, it’s easy to take a short bus or metro ride into the centre for a quick walk around the main squares or Galleria, but it’s perfectly fine to keep the first night simple.

Day 2: Milan to Genoa

In the morning we travelled from Milano Centrale to Genova Piazza Principe by train. After arriving in Genoa we checked into B&B La Casa del Cuoco, a small bed and breakfast located in the historic center. The room we booked was a small private room in a shared apartment with the host, including breakfast.

After checking in at our apartment, we explored Via XX Settembre and Porto Antico, the old harbour area. We visited Piazza De Ferrari, Via Garibaldi, and admired palaces like Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Reale. Another highlight was visiting the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, which has an impressive black and white striped façade.

After the piazzas, we stopped at Eataly, enjoying an Aperol on the terrace downstairs and then heading upstairs for a panoramic view of the city. For dinner, we went to Trattoria alle Due Torri to enjoy classic pasta pesto, a true Ligurian speciality. It was a delicious way to end our first day exploring Genoa. The restaurant is also located on a beautiful spot next to Porta Soprana.

Day 3: Daytrip to Boccadasse

We started the day by walking along the boardwalk to Boccadasse, a charming seaside village about an hour walk away from Genoa’s centre. When we visited, parts of the promenade were under construction, but normally this walk offers beautiful views along the Ligurian coast. Just make sure to check if constructions are done if you plan on going! Otherwise it might be a good idea to take the bus.

Once in Boccadasse, we enjoyed lunch right on Spiaggia di Vernazzola, a quieter beach and perfect spot to relax away from the crowds. Make sure to bring lunch because there are no spots nearby the beach to buy something.

Later in the afternoon, we went to Pestobene to taste their pesto alle Genovese, honestly one of the best I’ve ever had. We finished the day at Molo 2.0, right by the harbour, enjoying cheap but delicious pasta: a perfect ending to our coastal exploration.

Day 4: Genoa to La Spezia

From Genoa we travelled to La Spezia by bus, which would be our base for visiting Cinque Terre. We stayed at Lia Art Hotel, a small modern hotel with clean and comfortable rooms. It’s located a bit further from La Spezia Centrale station, but it’s close to the city center, restaurants and the boat terminal, which made it very convenient in the evenings.

After checking in we spent the rest of the day exploring La Spezia and preparing for our visit to Cinque Terre the next day. La Spezia itself is not as famous as the Cinque Terre villages, but it’s still a pleasant city to explore for a few hours. The historic center around Corso Cavour has plenty of restaurants, small shops and cafés, making it a great place to wander in the evening. We also enjoyed walking along the harbour and waterfront promenade, which gives nice views over the marina. We also visited the Castello San Giorgio, a small castle with beautiful views over La Spezia and the harbor. Even a short walk up here gives a nice perspective of the city.

La Spezia also has plenty of good restaurants, which makes it a great place to stay if you want a quieter and more affordable base compared to the Cinque Terre villages themselves. Originally, we wanted to dine at Osteria all’Inferno dal 1905 or Osteria da Bartali, but both were fully booked. Make sure to reserve in advance if you plan to eat at popular places. Instead, we went to New Khotee, which turned out to be delicious and affordable. The pasta dishes were excellent, and the cocktails were surprisingly good: a perfect way to end the first evening in La Spezia.

Day 5: Exploring Cinque Terre

We bought the Cinque Terre Train + Hiking Pass (€27 per person), which allows unlimited train travel on the Levanto–La Spezia line and access to paid hiking trails. We started in Riomaggiore, wandering through the narrow village streets before heading to the viewpoint. Lunch was at Grandma Vittoria, where we enjoyed amazing sandwiches with pesto and goat cheese. Next, we took the train to Manarola, famous for its colorful houses stacked above the sea. We walked along the rocks outside the village for breathtaking views.

From Corniglia, we hiked to Vernazza, a 1.5-hour trail with some steep sections but amazing views over cliffs, vineyards, and the sea. Halfway, we stopped at Il Gabbioni for a cocktail break. From there, we had one of the best views I have ever seen! In Vernazza, we strolled through the harbor and streets and tried fried seafood. We ended the day in Monterosso al Mare, where I went for a swim near the Statue of the Giant.

Back in La Spezia, we had dinner at Palati Fini. We ate some of the best pizza’s we ever had! I recommend trying pizza Bronte with buratta, mortadella and pistachio; or pizza Carlotta with pesto, buratta and cherry tomatoes.

You can read my complete blog about CInque Terre here.

Day 6: Daytrip to Portovenere

We decided to take a day trip to Portovenere from La Spezia. We took a short boat ride with Navigazione Golfo dei Poeti, which lasted about 20 to 30 minutes. The boat drops you near the harbor, and from there it’s easy to start exploring. Portovenere is a charming coastal village with colorful houses, narrow streets, and stunning sea views. We walked up to Doria Castle, which offers panoramic views over the town, the harbor, and the Ligurian Sea. The castle itself is small but full of history, and the views from the ramparts are worth the climb.

Afterwards, we visited San Pietro Church, a beautiful cliffside church that adds a historic and scenic highlight to the village. We also spent some time swimming at Spiaggia dell’Olivo, a small beach near the village. Since there aren’t many beachside facilities, we brought our own food and drinks. Portovenere felt much less touristy than Cinque Terre and was a relaxing break, combining history, swimming, and coastal scenery all in one day.

Day 7: Pisa stop on the way to Florence

From La Spezia, we traveled by train to Pisa, leaving our luggage at StowYourBags on Via Cristoforo Colombo, only a two minute walk from the station. This allowed us to explore the city without carrying anything heavy. We wandered through Piazza dei Miracoli, taking in the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the cathedral, and the baptistery. The square is impressive, and seeing the Leaning Tower in person is very different from photos.

After visiting the main sights, we enjoyed a gelato at La Bottega del Gelato, which was rich and creamy, a perfect mid-day treat. Once we collected our luggage, we continued by train to Florence. The journey was quick and comfortable, arriving in the afternoon. In Florence, we checked into Sitornino Apartment in San Frediano, a charming and well-located flat that offered the perfect mix of comfort and independence. That evening we walked up to Piazzale Michelangelo to watch the sunset over the city and strolled along Ponte Vecchio, enjoying the vibrant atmosphere. I have a complete blog on what you can do in Florence here.

Day 8: Exploring Florence

Day 8 was dedicated entirely to exploring Florence. Returning here felt both familiar and new, since I had visited the city before, but now we had more time to really enjoy it. We started our day in Florence at Farmacia Santa Maria Novella, one of the oldest pharmacies in the world. The beautifully decorated rooms feel more like a museum than a shop, and it’s fascinating to browse perfumes, soaps, and herbal products. It was a quiet start to the day, away from the busier streets nearby.

Afterwards, we wandered through the Duomo area, admiring Santa Maria del Fiore from outside, and explored Piazza della Signoria and Mercato del Porcellino, enjoying the lively atmosphere and historic statues. We also walked along the Arno River, crossed Ponte Vecchio, and explored the artisan shops in the Oltrarno district.

Later in the afternoon, we visited the Galleria dell’Accademia to see Michelangelo’s David, a truly overwhelming experience. The scale and detail of the statue are incredible in person, and seeing it was the perfect way to end our day in Florence. For dinner we went to Osteria de’ Peccatori, where I tried traditional pappardelle al cinghiale, rich and flavorful, and finished with pistachio ice cream.

Day 9: Florence to Bologna

We took the Italo high-speed train from Florence to Bologna using the YOUNG fare, which is ideal for travelers under 30. Upon arrival, we checked into Urban Nest S Orsola, a well-located apartment that made exploring the city easy. We tried a piadina with mortadella and pistachio, a typical Bolognese snack, before heading out to see the city.

Our first stop was Piazza Maggiore, Bologna’s main square and the heart of the historic center. The square is surrounded by impressive buildings, including Palazzo d’Accursio and Basilica di San Petronio, giving a real sense of the city’s history and architecture. At the center of the square stands the Fountain of Neptune, a magnificent 16th-century fountain topped by Neptune holding his trident. It’s one of Bologna’s most iconic landmarks. The piazza is lively throughout the day, with locals and tourists mingling, street performers, and cafés lining the edges, making it the perfect spot to soak up the atmosphere.

Since the famous Two Towers were closed for renovations, you can climb the Torre dell’Orologio, which offers a fantastic alternative for panoramic views. In the evening we shopped and enjoyed dinner on our balcony, relaxing after a full day of travel.

Day 10: Basilica di San Luca

We dedicated the day to visiting Basilica di San Luca, a beautiful hilltop church just outside the center of Bologna. To avoid the long uphill walk, we took the San Luca Express, which was quick and convenient. Once at the top, we explored the Santuario della Madonna di San Luca, admiring its richly decorated interior and serene atmosphere. It’s important to dress modestly to enter, as the church enforces a respectful dress code.

The views from the hill are breathtaking, offering a panorama of Bologna’s red rooftops, surrounding hills, and the city’s landmarks. Walking around the church and the surrounding terrace made it clear why this site is a favorite among both locals and visitors. After descending, we returned to the city center for dinner at Dispensa Emilia, enjoying tortellini with crema al Parmigiano, a classic Bolognese specialty. It was the perfect end to a day of sightseeing.

Day 11: Milan and The Last Supper

On our final travel day, we returned to Milan by Italo Treno. After checking in at B&B Best Hostel Milano, we headed straight to Santa Maria delle Grazie to see The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci. Tickets are extremely limited, usually released in small batches months in advance. We had to monitor the online system carefully to get our spot. For anyone planning to visit, it’s crucial to book early, or check the weekly release of new tickets, which happens every Wednesday at noon. Seeing the painting in person was unforgettable; the detail and scale are far more impressive than any photo.

Afterward, we explored Milan Cathedral (Duomo di Milano), wandering around the piazza and admiring the intricate marble façade from different angles. We also visited Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a stunning 19th-century shopping gallery full of elegant boutiques and cafés. In the evening, we headed to the Navigli district, famous for its canals and lively atmosphere. We had dinner at Il Kebab dei Navigli, a simple spot that offered surprisingly good pizza at an affordable price, which was a perfect casual end to our trip.

Day 12: Last morning in Milan

On our last morning, we enjoyed a pistachio croissant and cappuccino, visited Castello Sforzesco, and then headed to the airport for our flight home. It was the perfect way to end an 12-day journey across Northern Italy using only public transport, with a mix of food, culture, and coastal scenery.

Final thoughts on traveling Northern Italy by public transport

Traveling through Northern Italy by public transport was easy, affordable, and full of unforgettable experiences. From the bustling streets of Milan to the colorful villages of Cinque Terre, the historic charm of Florence, and the culinary delights of Bologna, every day offered something new. I hope this itinerary inspires your own Italian adventure.